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Author Topic: Kaw - Liga's distributor  (Read 1984 times)

Matt Aker

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Kaw - Liga's distributor
« on: May 08, 2008, 02:47:57 PM »

I forgot to ask about yer breaker points. 
 
A loose .0017 or a tight .0018 are where you want them.  OR about 30-degrees of dwell angle if you have a meter...
 
With the points open at a dizzy cam lobe a match book cover should JUST fit between the contacts with a slight drag.
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Tom Atkinson

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« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2008, 03:07:37 PM »

We'll need to go slow on the points too.  Remember this is my first time.
 
I have no idea on the breaker points. OK maybe a little.  I got the tech manual right here.   Are these the points where the rotor passes the charge.  The numbers you're posting are the clerance under or past them.   The 30 degrees of dwell angle I'm lost as the dizzy cam lobe.
 
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Tom Atkinson

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« Reply #2 on: May 09, 2008, 03:26:48 AM »

As I laid in bed thinking last night it came to me.  Points can be taken out of the old skool caps wheres new modern caps have them moulded in.   Correct?
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Herman

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Kaw - Liga's distributor
« Reply #3 on: May 09, 2008, 03:57:11 AM »


The most cost-effective way to get rid of the breakerpoints is to install a new Mopar-Performance distributor and (aftermarket !) controlunit.
"FBO" also makes a very good system which would be my first choice to upgrade any old pointstype ignition system.


BigBlockMopar2008-05-09 08:57:24

Steve

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Kaw - Liga's distributor
« Reply #4 on: May 09, 2008, 05:15:00 AM »

The other way to eliminate points is with a simple Pertronix module.  70 bux.  Done in about an hour
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Herman

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Kaw - Liga's distributor
« Reply #5 on: May 09, 2008, 06:16:49 AM »

But then you still retain your 40 year old distributor with equally worn distributor-shaft...



Tom Atkinson

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« Reply #6 on: May 09, 2008, 07:12:05 AM »

How bad can it be?  The car only has 85,000 miles on it.  
 
I'm trying to keep it as original as possible.   Is keeping the old set up just making headaches for myself?
 
I don't want to be showing it off and some old guy comes up and starts telling me what's wrong with my car and it's not really an original. 
 
If I pop the cap off to look inside will that mess up the timing and need to be reset?
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Herman

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Kaw - Liga's distributor
« Reply #7 on: May 09, 2008, 07:29:58 AM »

You can pop the cap and check inside without offsetting anything.
As a check, you can also pull of the rotor inside and feel if the distributor-shaft has some play or not. Up&Down-play is normal, but side-to-side is actuall wear.
The rotor only goes back onto the shaft in 1 way, so don't worry about that either.
With only 85k miles things may still be alright though.

Steve

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Kaw - Liga's distributor
« Reply #8 on: May 09, 2008, 07:38:47 AM »

No it will not.
 
Even changing the points will not have a huge effect on the timing.
 
You could always get a rebuilt distributor and put the Pertronics in it.  Then replace the whole assembly, pointing it to where the original rotor pointed.  Then you'd only be out a few degrees and get ti somewhere for the timing to be set with a light. (assuming you don't have one)
 
The Pertronix does not require a box and externally would look close to factory original.  All it does is replace the points.  You will have one extra wire to be run to the coil.  Done right, nobody would even know.
 
When you take the cap off, do this.
Take off the rotor. It pulls straight up and is notched so it only goes one way.  Grab the shaft and shake it around.  If there is allot of slop, it needs to be repaired.  If it doesn't have allot, leave it. 
If you have a oiler fitting on your distributor, put a few drops in there.  That's something that is constantly over looked.
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Tom Atkinson

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Kaw - Liga's distributor
« Reply #9 on: May 09, 2008, 08:28:20 AM »

The light 2 n 1 or whatever it is oil or a drop of motor oil?
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Steve

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« Reply #10 on: May 09, 2008, 10:14:11 AM »

Quote from: Chrysler300
The light 2 n 1 or whatever it is oil or a drop of motor oil?
 
Engine oil. 
 
Let's start a new thread on the ignition.  before this one get's too far off topic.
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Tom Atkinson

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« Reply #11 on: May 09, 2008, 10:45:28 AM »

Man not only good with engines but a mind reader too.   I was going suggest moving this to the electrical section.  See you over there with this afternoons findings.
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Tom Atkinson

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Kaw - Liga's distributor
« Reply #12 on: May 09, 2008, 11:38:51 AM »

So it was a slow Friday and I snuck out early to play with the distributor. 
I had no trouble poping off the cap and found this.

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
I tried to close the contacts. and see how that looked.   I tried to turn them closed by moving the fan.  As I like to say no dice.  The fan just spun.  
 
The cam had about 1/8 to 1/4 of play when twisted.  So does this mean I should replace it, recondition or a touch bit of play is OK.  I'm thinking any play is no go as it throws off timing.  From the pics in the tech manual it looks pretty straight forward.  Doing this looks like I'll need to get a dwell meter and timing light.
 
Put some oil on the parts the manual said to and closed it up.  
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Snotty

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« Reply #13 on: May 09, 2008, 11:46:29 AM »

The fan is connceted by a clutch so it did what it s desigend to do.  The best way to "bump" your motor is with a remote starter button.
 
I'm unclear what you are asking.  Your points set-up appears normal to me.  If the gap opening when on a lobe is correct all is well.  If your points are worn, replace them.  The dwell is the amount of time the points are closed, but this is best measured when the motor is running.
 
As I said, I'm uncertain what you are asking.
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Steve

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« Reply #14 on: May 09, 2008, 12:29:19 PM »

That's because Snotty is a late comer.  MIND YER BUSINESS REV. SCOTT.
 
Cap looks good, rotor looks like it got hot, I would replace that.  Points don't have allot gray on the outside of the contacts so they may be OK. 
 
The Cam lobes look like they have not been lubed.  There is a special lube for that.  The grease reduces the wear to the Phenolic cam contact on the points.  A small dot of a heavy grease may work for now.  Try to find a tube of point Cam lube these days. . .  I have one.  I can mail you a small squirt if you like.
 
Trick
 
With the points closed, take a dollar bill, in your case a $100 dollar bill, () and pull it through the points so it cleans both sides.  The dollar bill is abrasive enough that it will rub off any oxidation and give them a cleaner surface.
 
As Scotty said.
Dwell is something you need a meter for.  Since you probably don't have one. . .  Let's let that go for now. 
 
How these work.
Points are used as an interruption in the power, converting the DC to AC.  That AC is fed to the coil, which is nothing more than a oil filled transformer.  Oil is for cooling.  The coil converts the 12V to 20,000 volts. (Not sure anymore what it was back then)  The center wires the high voltage lead which goes to the center of the distributor.  The rotor takes that and feeds the spark plugs in a certain sequence.  AC is used because it has arc quenching charasticis DC does not.  That means the cycle in the AC has a milisecond break in it which allows the spark on the plug to time out between firing.  I hope that makes sense.
 
The little cams you see on the shaft open and close the points.  To set a set of points, you turn the engine or the distributor so the points are open to their maximum possible opening.  Then a feeler gauge, .017 as I recall, is inserted to make sure they are apart at the proper distance.  GM had a good system where they had a window which opened and you could adjust the points to their optimium with the engine running.  Unfortunately, we don't have that so we have to be really good at it.
 
That's ignition 101
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