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Author Topic: Kaw-Liga is runing.  (Read 1870 times)

Steve

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Kaw-Liga is runing.
« Reply #15 on: May 05, 2008, 04:49:40 AM »

Break the brake. .  What ever
 
That was 3/8 Fuel Injection hose for the booster and PCV.  I suggested 6 feet.  DO NOT SETTLE FOR ANYTHING LESS.  Stuff works perfect.  I think the smaller hose is 3/32.  I suggested you take one with you to match
 
The PCV goes into the top of the right valve cover.  65 is probably near the rear of the engine.  The hose goes into the front like Dan shows above.  The valve is not usually a problem, but neglected or improperly installed, it could be a problem.
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Tom Atkinson

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Kaw-Liga is runing.
« Reply #16 on: May 05, 2008, 05:05:22 AM »

Thanks Polaraco.  I tracked down the other post too.  I'm trying to post some pics.  It's telling me mine are to big.  I'll try the other camera and see how that goes.
 
Chrysler3002008-05-05 10:06:03
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Tom Atkinson

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« Reply #17 on: May 05, 2008, 09:01:09 AM »

1st try at posting a photo. Ok here's my carb. 
 
Front

 
Left side

 
Right side

 
Man I hope I did this right.  In preview it takes up the whole page.
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Tom Atkinson

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« Reply #18 on: May 05, 2008, 09:03:06 AM »

Oh yaaaa baby.     Got it.   Looks good don't it.   Now from what I can make out the tag attached has 8569 stamped on it.
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Matt Aker

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Kaw-Liga is runing.
« Reply #19 on: May 05, 2008, 03:50:44 PM »

I already posted in the other post about yer car, but I have a little more to offer. 
 
The carb accelerator pump rod should be in the MIDDLE hole on the diaphram cam, whether a 383 OR 440.  You have a rich-running problem...  Look at the soot in the primaries...  too much fuel!
 
Take your mixture screws out completely (they should both be about 1.5 inches long with a needle point where they go into the carb).  Put them back in and gently seat them in the carb body.  Now back them out two complete revolutions (four turns of a screw driver).
 
We'll address the ignition later...  I'm here to help ya buddy.
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Matt

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Matt Aker

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Kaw-Liga is runing.
« Reply #20 on: May 05, 2008, 04:03:58 PM »

My objective here is to put things back to "as stock as possible"....  from there we can trouble-shoot a little better.
 
Once the carb is figured out the rest is easy.  Ignition on a '65 is like falling out of bed fer me, I drove my '66 NYer fer ten-years.
 
You have a disc-brake booster, which may be a major player in why you have no binders.  That booster will exert MORE pressure than the stock one on the single cylinder master.  The weakest point has taken the brunt and failed, prolly the master.  Look fer a correct booster if you plan on keeping the four-wheel drums.
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Matt

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Steve

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Kaw-Liga is runing.
« Reply #21 on: May 05, 2008, 04:09:36 PM »

Matt
 
I have the same booster in my 300 also.  I posted about the diff on the other thread.
 
I want to correct you on the mixtures screws.  It's 1 1/2 turns not 2.  Then adjust as needed 1/8 turn at a time
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Arlen Vander Hoff

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Kaw-Liga is runing.
« Reply #22 on: May 06, 2008, 03:35:14 AM »

Not to be a "kiss up" but yeah I agree with Steve 1 and 1/2 turns of the mixture screws.
then small adjustments from there.
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Matt Aker

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Kaw-Liga is runing.
« Reply #23 on: May 06, 2008, 04:45:24 AM »

Well, when I went through my "Swartz" training Yogurt (dad) advised me to always start a little lean.  When dialed-in the two screws were usually about 1.25 to 1.5 counter-clockwise turns from thier seat.
 
We used an exhaust gas analyzer at each tail pipe also, but those instruments aren't too common these dayz.
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Matt

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Tom Atkinson

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« Reply #24 on: May 06, 2008, 05:15:19 AM »

OK to make sure I do this correclty here's what I'm going to do after you guys tell me I got it right.
 
Move the accel arm to the middle hole.  Oddly enough I remember when this was moved.  I had a guy helping and said that was the problem years ago.  He told me it would give me more power.
 
Remove the two screws on the front put back in and screw in 1 and a half turns. 
 
Now when she fires up if running rough adjust them 1/8th  at a time until running smooth. I take it I adjust both screws equally as each controls one side of the carb.  Correct?
 
I'm thinking this is a lot like when I was a kid working the needle on a cox .049 engine.
 
Should I take off the vacuum hose to the break and cap it for right now or just leave it alone?
 
As you see I am just starting my SWARTZ tainning. 
Chrysler3002008-05-06 10:16:58
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Herman

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« Reply #25 on: May 06, 2008, 05:44:59 AM »


Quote from: Chrysler300
Remove the two screws on the front put back in and screw in 1 and a half turns.

No, (I don't know why someone mentioned to remove the screws and then put them in again) but just screw them in till they don't go any further (don't force it !), and THEN turn them out 1.5 turns.


Tom Atkinson

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« Reply #26 on: May 06, 2008, 06:55:22 AM »

I'll go with the screwing them down till they stop applying no force at that point.  Back out 1.5 turns.
 
Now when she fires up how do I know if I need to monkey with them any more.  Rough idle.
 
One other thing to throw into my bag of problems.  When it was running the other day it was fast idling and would not come off it.  In the past once it was warm and I goosed it once she would calm right down.  What's sticking or am I getting way ahead of where we want to be?
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Matt Aker

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Kaw-Liga is runing.
« Reply #27 on: May 06, 2008, 07:28:58 AM »

I suggested removing the screws.  Reason being I had an AVS once where the previous owner overtightened them and broke the needles off in the body of the carb.  It's no wonder that 440 wouldn't idle smoothly...   (it's amazing it ran at all...)
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Matt

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Steve

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Kaw-Liga is runing.
« Reply #28 on: May 06, 2008, 08:22:17 AM »

Once you have it warmed up and not on fast idle, you can adjust the mixtures screws 1/8 of a turn either way until it smooths out.  If they are out too far, the car will run richer and you sacrifice fuel mileage.
 
As far as the fast idle is concerned. .  .
 
Make sure the choke is open all the way.  On the side of the carb, I think on the left side, there is a cam with a rod connected to it.  One of the idle screws goes to it.  It could be just stuck from sitting.  But if the choke isn't closing, it will stay on fast.  If the cam is disengaged and it still runs fast, check to be sure the throttle is closing all the way to the idle stop. (Idle Screw)  If it is, the idle screw may be set too high.  Take a screw driver and slow it down.  I think the idle should be around 650 without looking it up.
 
Is it running decent now?  I haven't heard.  We still have to talk about the points.
 
Anybody have a picture of a point distributor handy?
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Tom Atkinson

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Kaw-Liga is runing.
« Reply #29 on: May 06, 2008, 10:03:59 AM »

I haven't tried running it since Saturday when I choked it off.   Had a derby party to go to that afternoon and spent Sunday with the kids getting mom her mothers day gift.   Yesterday I messed with the brakes.      Tonight I may have time to play with the master cylinder cap for a few mins before heading out with the daughter to her soccer practice.  
 
It's a busy life I lead but a good one too.
 
OK now I'm mixed on the carb.   Do I have this right,  Take out the screws and make sure the points are OK.  Then screw back in all the way just until they won't turn any more.  To much and they will be damaged from I'm reading.  Back out 1.5 turns.  Adjust per Polaraco once running on slow idle.
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