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Author Topic: Tried to start Kaw-Liga today.  (Read 2882 times)

Matt Aker

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Tried to start Kaw-Liga today.
« Reply #15 on: May 05, 2008, 03:25:35 PM »

That there is an AFB carb, Clark   It kinda puts things into perspective for me.
 
That round thingy on the left is the vacuum choke pull-off and has no real operation when the car is running at normal operating temperatrure.  When cold it pulls the choke valve shut per the settings on the right side of the carberator, the vacuum line runs to the vac port closest to the passenger (RH) side. 
 
This is the EASIEST carb to werk on...  my '66 NYer still had one when I bought it, prolly a 600 cfm from the factory.
 
Now I'll look for a pic of an open distributor to show you the breaker points...  We'll get it fixed
 
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Matt

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Matt Aker

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« Reply #16 on: May 05, 2008, 03:29:12 PM »

That brake booster isn't correct for that car either...  who changed it?  (You mentioned a brake issue...)
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Matt

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Steve

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« Reply #17 on: May 05, 2008, 04:06:11 PM »

Matt
 
They had several boosters.  The RB got a different one.  Is that what you're thinking?  My 300 has the same one
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Dan Cluley

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« Reply #18 on: May 06, 2008, 02:31:49 AM »

Quote from: Chrysler300
I'm rethinking what carb it is.  My manual shows 2bbr and mine has 4bbr. 
 
That looks like the proper carb.
 
Newports came with 2 barrel standard, 300 and New Yorkers got the 4 barrel.
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Matt Aker

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« Reply #19 on: May 06, 2008, 04:37:36 AM »

Quote from: POLARACO
Matt
 
 
I've never seen that style booster on a four-corner drum pre-'69 C, regardless of the engine.  
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Matt

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Tom Atkinson

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« Reply #20 on: May 06, 2008, 07:11:45 AM »

So that's the original carb.    I was worried it had been changed.   
I posted close ups of the booster and master in the brake section.   The booster looks exactly like the one in the tech manual I purchaed the other week.  As for the master the plate on top looks flater than the one in manual.   Polaraco say's it looks just like his.  One of the other guys says it's a power cylinder or somehting.   I posted my problem with it in the brake section.   I also learned they are brakes and not breaks.
 
Oh if you look real close at the brake system pics you'll see I have a Sears volt regulator.  So if this is the original carb then the only non-original parts I am aware of are the volt box, the muffler and shocks.   Even has the standard non working clock. 
 
I'm posting all over.
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Tom Atkinson

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« Reply #21 on: May 07, 2008, 01:02:17 PM »

Thanks for the help everyone.
 
Moved the Accelerator pump connector rod to the middle hole on the accelerator pump rocker arm (can ya tell I'm reading my tech manual).
 
Took out the idle mixture adjusting screws.   How pointed should they be?  Do these look OK?
 

 

 
I put them back  in and screwed until they just stopped with very very little pressure.  Backed out 1.5 turns. 
 
Taped shut the vacuum line to brake booster, filled float bowls and fired her up.  Much lower RPMS and rough but not as shakey as before.  She ran for about 1 min then died off so I didn't get a chance to try an smooth it out by adjusting the screws.   Some smoke again from the valve cover oil cap.    Decided to wait till I heard back from here on thoughts about this.  Dip stick shows oil level is OK and still no gas smell.  I figure I'll change the oil tomorrow anyway.
 
So thoughts on smoke?
 
On idle screws if I adjust one 1/8th do I adjust the other the same or if I turn one 1/8th and it smooths out leave everything alone?
 
 
 
 
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Matt Aker

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« Reply #22 on: May 07, 2008, 03:29:03 PM »

Hmmm...  Those needles are rather blunt.  You may need a new carb, which will save a lot of headaches.  43 years aint' bad for a carburetor.  Get a new 1405 Eddy, you'll be glad you did!
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Matt

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Matt Aker

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« Reply #23 on: May 07, 2008, 03:36:15 PM »

If you want the electric choke go with a 1406 Eddy carb.  The 1405 is the same with a manual cold start (cable operated).  These carbs are a direct replacement and you will be happy with the change in your 300's performance. 
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Matt

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Steve

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« Reply #24 on: May 07, 2008, 04:04:42 PM »

Some of them were blunt.  They could be aftermarket replacements from an overhaul.  Carb body looks to clean to be 34 years old.   
 
The metering is done around the seat which looks OK on the needles.  They look to have a bit of light oxidation on them though.  Put them back in.
 
Let's forget about the blow by for now.  You manage to fill the bowl and it runs for a shot time then dies.  Did you look to see if there was a jet of gas like I suggested a while back?
 
We need to find out if you are out of gas, or if it's not pumping fuel.  Put some more gas in it and let us know.
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Tom Atkinson

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« Reply #25 on: May 08, 2008, 04:56:23 AM »

After taking out the old gas I put in two gallons of 93 octaine.  I put in two more yesterday. 
I'll check the fuel pump tonight.   Somone suggested taking the hose off at the pump coming in from the tank.  While someone turns it over hold a finger or thumb over the hole and see if it sucks in.
My big concern right now is the smoke from the head.  I don't want to run it much until I'm sure she aint a burnin up.   One of the guys in my Rotary club said it may just be burning off crud built up in it. Any thoughts on this?  I'm still planning on changing out the oil tonight as well.
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Herman

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« Reply #26 on: May 08, 2008, 05:08:00 AM »

The smoke out of the valvecover is just some blow-by from the piston rings. Not much to worry about.
If you reconnect or properly seat the PCV-valve on the pass.side valvecover the smoke should be less or practically gone.

I can't recall reading about it but did you change the sparkplugs already in the engine before all this? Bad plugs will cause a bad running engine aswell.

But I agree you shold find out first if the engine is getting fuel pumped into the carb alright.
If you're brave enough you could try to keep the engine running by spraying BrakeClean into the front barrels of the carb, so the fuelpump gets more time to get the fuel flowing from the tank.



Tom Atkinson

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« Reply #27 on: May 08, 2008, 05:24:07 AM »

I'll pick up some plugs with the oil today.  They were changed out just prior to haveing set for some time.  Big relief on the smoke being blow by.  After seeing the brake situation I was worried I had another big mess to deal with.
 
On the PCV the hose is hooked to the carb and the cap on the valvecover.  I tried to pull off the cap but it will not pull off.  Is it twisted on?
 
Will the brakeclean flame up thus the being brave?
 
One other question is that product restore which you put in the oil worth putting in or just snake oil.   ( Ha get it snake oil, oil.  Man I crack myself up sometimes.)
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Steve

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« Reply #28 on: May 08, 2008, 05:49:24 AM »

Thanks Herm
 
We weren't worried about the smoke for now.  It's just a bit of blowby.  It's common.
 
You're not flooding the engine compartment with smoke are you?
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Herman

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« Reply #29 on: May 08, 2008, 05:55:53 AM »

PCV-valve, twisted on.

BrakeClean, it can if you'd have a backfire through the carb. But it very volatile so if it burns, it will burn shortly, just like gasoline.

Oil-additives can also do harm in certain cases. Just choosing a good quality oil with a well-balanced additive package from the plant is better than adding stuff yourself usually.
When you're buying oil, try to get some which still has a SL-rating or lower.
SM-rated oil contains less 'zinc' which our old-style lifter cams don't like very much.
Zinc is used as an anti-scuff agent, but since nearly all new cars have rollercams these days, they are removing the zinc-part in todays oil for "environmental purposes".




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