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C-body leaf spring shackles

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Sjak Brak View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sjak Brak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: C-body leaf spring shackles
    Posted: Feb/25/2010 at 3:22PM
Out of curiosity, are correct new C-body shackles for sale actually?

Those listed on popular parts sites are actually B-body shackles, which won't fit without some hacking and welding....
ex-Mopars 1967 Chrysler Newport Custom Coupe, 1973 Imperial LeBaron 2dr hardtop, 1973 Imperial LeBaron 4dr Hardtop, 1971 Plymouth Sport Fury 2 door hardtop
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote POLARACO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/25/2010 at 3:30PM
Nope. . . I have a set and won't part with them
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sjak Brak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/25/2010 at 3:43PM
I have a "hacker and welder"but was just at the speedshop, and we were wondering why all those sites are listing the wrong part for the shackles.

The strange thing is though, the part # on Rockauto only gives C's and Imperials as a result, but shows the wrong part on the pic. Would it be worth a $30 gamble?

RAYBESTOS Part # 5761005


CHRYSLER300(1955 - 1971)
CHRYSLERIMPERIAL(1951 - 1967)
CHRYSLERIMPERIAL CROWN(1968 - 1970)
CHRYSLERIMPERIAL LEBARON(1968 - 1973)
CHRYSLERNEW YORKER(1953 - 1973)
CHRYSLERNEW YORKER BROUGHAM(1972 - 1973)
CHRYSLERNEWPORT(1953 - 1973)
CHRYSLERNEWPORT CUSTOM(1968 - 1973)
CHRYSLERNEWPORT ROYAL1972
CHRYSLERSARATOGA(1957 - 1960)
CHRYSLERST REGIS(1955 - 1956)
CHRYSLERTOWN & COUNTRY(1953 - 1972)
DODGE3301964
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DODGE880(1963 - 1964)
DODGEB200 VAN(1971 - 1978)
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DODGEB200 VAN SPORTSMAN(1971 - 1978)
DODGEB300 VAN(1978 - 1979)
DODGEB300 VAN MAXI(1978 - 1979)
DODGEB300 VAN MAXI WAGON(1978 - 1979)
DODGEB300 VAN SPORTSMAN(1978 - 1979)
DODGECUSTOM(1962 - 1965)
DODGEMONACO(1965 - 1973)
DODGEMONACO 5001968
DODGEPOLARA(1965 - 1973)
DODGEPOLARA 500(1968 - 1969)
DODGEPOLARA BROUGHAM1971
DODGEPOLARA CUSTOM(1970 - 1973)
PLYMOUTHFURY(1965 - 1967)
PLYMOUTHFURY CUSTOM1971
PLYMOUTHFURY CUSTOM SUBURBAN(1968 - 1973)
PLYMOUTHFURY GRAN COUPE(1970 - 1972)
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PLYMOUTHFURY I(1968 - 1973)
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PLYMOUTHFURY SPORT(1966 - 1971)
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PLYMOUTHFURY SPORT SUBURBAN(1968 - 1973)
PLYMOUTHFURY SUBURBAN(1968 - 1973)
PLYMOUTHFURY VIP(1966 - 1969)
PLYMOUTHGRAN FURY1972
PLYMOUTHPB200 VOYAGER(1974 - 1978)
PLYMOUTHPB200 VOYAGER EX WAGON(1974 - 1977)
PLYMOUTHPB200 VOYAGER MX WAGON1978
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PLYMOUTHPB300 VOYAGER MX WAGON(1978 - 1979)



ex-Mopars 1967 Chrysler Newport Custom Coupe, 1973 Imperial LeBaron 2dr hardtop, 1973 Imperial LeBaron 4dr Hardtop, 1971 Plymouth Sport Fury 2 door hardtop
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Imperiyad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/25/2010 at 4:13PM
Maybe the boys here can help of you have a sample or if they are the same as the the ones on the imp, we have a good turner man that used to make special tools and fixed the hood hinges witch were really bad as you remember...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CBarge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/25/2010 at 5:13PM

Problem is the Fusey's had a wierd offset  on one-side  of shackle.

hard to duplicate and nothing in the aftermarket or generic parts will work.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote POLARACO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/25/2010 at 5:30PM
Right
 
Those are actually B Body Duplicates.  They're 1/2 shorter than the C.  Good up to 68
 
I considered having a batch of the fusies made. . . .   Pretty easy to do.  Just stamp them out and use bolts if needed.  Cheap, but not original.  Quandry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FIN_NV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/25/2010 at 8:19PM
Have you tried Esp0- Springs and Things in Pennsylvania, USA?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote thrashingcows Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/26/2010 at 1:02AM
Most of the time it's the the main cross shafts that are toast, due to rust and corrosion.  The "uprights" are usually fine.  So a long bolt in place of the original will work. 

I know that the bushings are the same as B-bodies, or darn close anyways.  The C-body ones are longer but I used B-body ones and then used one of the old ones as a spacer between the two new ones.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/26/2010 at 1:58AM

If using the B body bushings, since they are not as wide as the leaf springs on the C bodies (from what I gather), it would be better to use a sleeve to maintain some clamping integrity and controlled amount of "squish" on the rubber bushings themselves, and give the bolt going through the center something other than rubber to ride on. Same as like the bushings in the control arms on the front, sitting directly on a through bolt and rubbing rubber all the time tends to wear them out faster. If the length of the through sleeve is the length of the bushings in place and .100 smaller to safely squish them tight (about two full turns on a 1/2 20 thread bolt, which is enough) without mushing them, I would think that would be much safer and last longer than simply squishing them until they're tight. It's also a lot safer to tighten them against a sleeve so you can control the torque, also.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sjak Brak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/26/2010 at 3:19AM

They will be rebuilt with PU-bushings, so a center rubber-bushing as a spacer is probably fine. But indeed, a metal spacer would allow some more controlled torquing of the bolt/nut. Thanks for rasing this.

Like TC said, it's mostly the shafts that are shot, dus to accumulated dirt/moist etc in the original rubber bushings.

 
This gas become a very interesting topic thanks to all the great reply's, thanks Big smile


Edited by Sjak Brak - Feb/26/2010 at 3:21AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/26/2010 at 11:13AM
Over the decades I have been working on cars overall, I decided to stick or turn towards Chrysler based products for two main reasons over all the competition. One is the quality of the engineering, thought actually went into a majority of the designs and structural integrity of components and how they would function alone and with other components, kind of a healthy tree in a healthy forest sort of way. The other is the quality of the materials engineered. With few exceptions, and again compared to the competition, parts were usually built of better metallurgically combined materials to actually last longer with few exceptions (like some plastic interior parts and maybe a few wires that over the years should have been one or two gages larger).
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote POLARACO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/26/2010 at 11:24AM
When did I tell you that? WinkWink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/26/2010 at 11:35AM
Ummm, I thought we agreed you could be my Padawan, just don't tell anyone.......
 
 
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