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Contributed by Larry Coleman from Forwardlook.net

Click on images to enlarge

33 Photos - Page : [1] [2] [3]


After disassembly and cleaning, here are the parts you will be using and reinstalling. I removed the ring gear because I was changing the gear ratio. If your ring and pinion are reusable the ring gear need not be removed.


Here are all of the old parts that I replaced. Notice: not shims. Save all the shims for possible reuse. Also notice that the old bearings came off in one piece and are reusable, because of the type of bearing puller I used. Don't throw ANYTHING away until you are completely finished. You never know what you may need them for.


Some rear ends set pinion depth with a shim behind the rear pinion bearing cup in the case, instead of on the pinion shaft (Picture #7). The overhaul kit from Randy's Ring and Pinion came with shims for either place. I prefer to shim in the case. That way I don't take a chance of damaging the bearing by removing and installing it over and over to get pinion depth right. Either place has the same effect of moving the pinion closer or farther from the ring gear.

 



Here is the bearing cup bore in the case. The notches on each side allow you to use a punch to remove the bearing cup.


Shims installed - measure the shims removed from behind the rear pinion bearing and duplicate that measured thickness with the larger new shims that go behind the bearing cup. This will only be a starting point as the shim pack will probably have to be increased or decreased to get the proper gear tooth pattern, but it is a good starting place.


Install both pinion bearing cups in the case using the bearing and seal installer set. Drivers are usually made of aluminum and won't hurt the bearing surface. Be careful if you use a punch, because they can damage the bearing surface and metal to metal pieces can cause flying steel pieces that can be very dangerous. A good bearing and seal driver set can be purchased from HARBOR FREIGHT, JC WHITNEY, MOST PART STORES, OR A GOOD TOOL SALESMAN and are a very reasonable price. (around $30.00) Buy a few extra bearings and seals that you have damaged and you could have paid for a driver set. They also work on axle seals, engine seals, transmission seals Etc.

 



Here is a good tip very few people think of. You will have to press the bearings on the pinion gear and differential case. YOU JUST REMOVED THE SPECIAL TOOL TO HELP YOU DO THIS. (The Old Bearings)


Use a pair of side cutters and cut the cage off of the bearings and remove the bearings and cage. This will leave you with just the inner race. (I.E. Special Tool)


Throw everything away except the inner race. Do the same thing with one of the Differential side bearings, too. Save them for use later and if you ever overhaul another rear-end.


To install your new bearing, just place it on the pinion shaft and turn the old race over and install it on top of the new bearing. The edges will match and not damage the new bearing cage.


You have two choices when installing the bearings. You can use a BIG (4 or 5 pound) hammer. ( Not the best way but it works) Be sure the bearing is fully seated against the pinion shaft. (The hammer will "bounce" differently when the bearing is seated.) Or see next Picture.


The best way to install bearings is with a press. If the old inner race sticks after installing the new bearing, a slight tap with a hammer will pop it free. (normal occurrence)

 

2004
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